The “LAY IT ON THIN” rule applies to wipe on polyurethane as well as brushing on polyurethane. Most of us don’t have the luxury of a separate finishing room. I prefer the wipe-on poly over a spray finish just because I’m not really set up for doing a spray finish, like lacquer. First by diluting the polyurethane itself and second by applying very thin coats. 7 – Wipe off any dust with a tack cloth or you can suck it up with a vacuum. The best thing to do is apply a poly layer with sandpaper afterward. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. The first layer really gets absorbed quickly, so you don’t have to wait long for the second. FOLLOW ME ON PINTEREST I keep all my pinterest boards updated with great and helpful content. Oil-Based Polyurethane. Polyurethane Finish Tip#2: Level the Surface of the Polyurethane. 220 is fine. Apply only one thin coat. 0000 steel wool with the grain between coats. Use medium to heavy pressure, and try to keep the pressure and the direction of your strokes as consistent as possible. Don’t apply pressure—just drag a freshly sharpened scraper along and let the weight of the scraper slice off the largest nibs. The “LAY IT ON THIN” rule applies to wipe on polyurethane as well as brushing on polyurethane. Or maybe you haven’t learned and perfected that technique. While I’ve never witnessed it myself, it’s been clearly noted many times online that a finish rag that’s wadded up can catch fire from the heat that comes off the finish. Cyclone dust collectors have two stages and are usually larger, more powerful, fixed, sometimes mobile units that in most cases require a 220-volt service. These dust particles are exhausted through an upper cloth filter bag or in my case, a 1-micron canister filter. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. These parts are the drawer fronts and at this point, I’ve already applied 4 layers with the rag. For more related content, subscribe to our newsletter! RAGS. I use this with Deft all the time and get great results-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their [email protected] A single layer of wipe on poly is very thin, compared to poly you brush on. Shellac can also be used to seal wood under polyurethane. Shellac can also be used to seal wood under polyurethane. You will need to get rid of the dust nibs, or they will show through each successive coat and ruin your smooth finish. You do NOT need to sand very much or very hard. Wipe it down with a tack cloth and coat it again. Just sand an area bigger than where you’re touching up to ‘rough-up’ the poly, and the paint can stick to it. Then I do a damp/wet sand using anywhere from a 320g to 1000g. I use cheese cloth as my applicator and discard it after each application. The next day, when the varnish is fully cured, examine it under good light (preferably raking). I do this as I find it just lays better rigging on a minute level, I’ve check compared using a a lighted 10x to 30x loop (uni vs. bi-directional sanding strokes). Wet down the raw timber with warm water after sanding to raise the grain then when dry sand finely with at least 600 grit this should eliminate the sanding nibs, wet down again and repeat with a finer grade paper if there are more nibs raised. But the flat face doesn't dig into or scratch the surrounding finish. I usually plan on finishing a piece of furniture for a week. This will knock … Any small particles -- even dust motes or nibs, will show up in the finish. Faster-drying polyurethane … The dust nibs haven't been much of a bother on this project. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. Scrollsaw, Carving, and Decorative Projects. The boards are satin smooth or glossy but very very slick. I definitely have some dust nibs in the last coat i put on. Various shop jigs, table saw sleds, and tricks of the trade have served him well. Whatever the case, you may be better off learning how to apply wipe on poly. To do this, I usually used compressed air and blow off all parts of the furniture to remove the dust. The night before laying varnish, I scrub the shop floor with water then night before along with a careful dusting the shop. But the flat face doesn't dig into or scratch the surrounding finish. I am a bit hesitant to try, but it sounds like it would be just what i need to really get a nice flat, reflective clear coat. That’s my guide for how to apply wipe on poly. This is plenty smooth for a great finish. Wipe it down with a tack cloth and coat it again. & humidity play a important roll as well. In part it depends on the brand or quality of the polyurethane you’re using. Danish oil contains oil with some varnish, and thinner added. He considers himself a 'Small Shop Woodworker' and practices his hobby in his garage. Secondly innovation through tragedy. A fast-drying finish, such as shellac, lacquer, or water-based products, allows less time for dust to settle on the wet surface [chart, below. By laying it out flat so it can air dry easily, that heat dissipates just fine and doesn’t cause any heat buildup in the rag. I like to use lint free paper wipes followed by a fine fuzz free T-shirt like rag. Wipe with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and apply the topcoat. You still need to keep your work area and the finish you’re using clean. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Danish oil contains oil with some varnish, and thinner added. Don't be satisfied with just a regular finish. Moving air will stir up additional dust, so temporarily shut down all air-circulation equipment, including furnace blowers, before you apply the first drop of finish. Apply a total of 2 to 4 coats of poly depending on the needs of the piece. In order to produce a higher sheen or gloss, we need to use a finer abrasive. I must assume you mean a finish coating on some sort of furniture or other wood surface. So you say you have 20 coats? It’s easy and it looks great. When you apply multiple coats of urethane, any dust or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat. The real downside is that the layers are so thin, it’s a slow process. Leave a little more on the surface this time than the first coat. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish—as long as the finish is fully dry. i used a metal flake paint for color. Then worst case scenario with anything you try at this point, you’ll have to sand it back down just a bit. Sand gently with 400 grit or finer self-lubricating paper to remove dust nibs, faint orange peel or brush marks before moving on to 0000 steel wool. i am using minwax oil based wipe on poly on a guitar. 2. They are by no means really bad, but still. 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2D9Edzm (UK) . Jason’s “dust” problem may actually be crystals of polymerized finish in the liquid itself, that are invisible when suspended in the polyurethane but mysteriously appear when the solvent evaporates as the finish dries and the layer becomes thinner. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. 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